Antec 1200 Q9650 Water Cooling ?'s

[Smythe]

I'd get something other than the D-tek Fusion. Currently the best waterblock is a Heatkiller. Swiftech just released their Apogee XT, however I'm not sure if any independent testing has been done on them yet.

For a radiator I'd go with a Feser, Thermochill, XSPC RX, or Swiftech. A Swiftech rad is the lowest performer of those, but only by a couple of degrees and costs half of the Feser or Thermochill. If you want the best performance then go with an XSPC RX as it matches the Feser and Thermochill, but at a price point right between the Swiftech and Feser/Thermochill. You can fit a triple radiator in the front of the case, but that will leave you with only two drive bays so if you have more than one HDD and OD you'd have to mount them externally. You could mount the radiator to the back of the case easily enough, but you said you wanted all internal components. With that a 120x2 would fit in the front and give you more room for HDDs and ODs or you could mount it on top where the 200mm fan is. A dual radiator is obviously much easier to work with and if all you'll be cooling is the CPU then you wouldn't need anything bigger. You'll also want fans on the radiator. You can put some on each side to get better cooling and add a shroud to each side for maximum cooling. That, of course increases the size of the radiator so you may not beable to fit all that in your case. Yate Loons are good inexpensive fans for radiator cooling.

For tubing the size doesn't really matter, but smaller sizes can be easier to work with. Just make sure you match the tubing size to the fittings you use. You shouldn't need more than 10 feet and even that will probably be too much. My watercooling system isn't all internal and I use maybe 8 feet. I'd be around 6 feet if I was all internal. This is with the smaller Antec 900 though. Tygon is great tubing, but Masterkleer and Saint-Gobain work just as well and for a fraction of the cost of Tygon. There's also colored tubing from Tygon, XSPC, Feser and Primochill if you don't want clear tubing. There are dyes, but they can break apart over time and leave gunk in the system. When factoring in the cost of the dye and how much is needed, it ends up being more cost effective to just get colored tubing. Of course if you want colored tubing for Masterkleer or Saint-Gobain prices you could try using Rit Dye to dye the tubing (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=234858).

If you have money left over you may also want to consider compression fittings. They're a bit expensive, but they look nice and are easier to work with. That's just my opinion though. You may also want to try and visualize how the tubing will run and get any angled adapters or fittings if necessary to minimize the length of tubing needed from one segment to another as well as make the run easier on the tubing so it won't kink.

Other things to look out for is galvanic corrosion when mixing metals. In the case of water cooling the two metals that can't be mixed would be aluminum and copper. If you have a mixed system then you'll need a corrosion inhibitor. However, this should be a non-issue as anymore everything is copper and if it's not then look at something else.

Finally you'll want a biocide. There are few options here, the first being tubing. Some tubing has anti-microbial properties built in so if you get that kind of tubing you won't have to worry about life growing in your loop. The next option would be to place silver in your loop. You can go with either a "Silver KillCoils" or Bitspower makes true silver compression fittings. Getting the fittings kills two birds with one stone if your interested in compression fittings. If you go the fitting route just make sure you're getting actual silver. The final option is to use an additive like "PT_Nuke" or go to your local pet store and look for anti-algae products. If you go to a store you'll want to make sure that "Copper sulfate pentahydrate" is listed as an active ingredient.

Good sites to shop at would be the already mentioned FrozenCPU and Petra's Tech Shop along with Jab-Tech, Sidewinder Computers and Performance-PCS. FrozenCPU often have the highest prices so I tend to go with PTS, Jab and Sidewinder. FrozenCPU does have a pretty big selection though so they may have something the other places don't. Performance PCS is usually less expensive than FrozenCPU, but more expensive than the other three. They do sleeve anything with wires (e.g. fans) for free which is pretty cool.

[Nater]

If you're wanting to keep it all internal, you probably don't have the best case for that. I suppose you could take out that ridiculously large fan at the top and do something with a 120x3 radiator up there, or in the front of the case behind the 5.25" bays, but that is about it. When it comes to water cooling, the case is the most important part. Unless of course you want some ghetto/redneck setup where it is bolted to the back or top of the case. I'm not big on that.

Have you considered just simply getting a better heatsink and fan? Something like the Thermalright Ultra Extreme or the Prolimatech Megahalems? What about an LCLC setup like the H50 from Corsair? It supposedly is a couple degrees C better than any air cooler and will be quieter. It only looks like you're interested in cooling your CPU, so that might be a good way to go.

Building a serious liquid cooling setup takes a lot of time, money, and work. As I said before the case is the most important part of that by far. Assuming you're like me and think that the MountainMods cube cases are hideous, your best choices are the Silverstone TJ07 and Lian Li's PC-V2x00 cases.

If you want to do that, remember a couple things. Thermochill, Feser, Swiftech for radiators and if you're just doing the CPU make sure it's at least a 120x2. The Heatkiller is the best CPU block right now, I've never been a fan of Swiftech's CPU blocks and I've owned a couple. Tubing size really doesn't matter, going from 1/2" id to 1/4" id tubing barely affects the c/w of a water cooling system at all. You're maybe talking half of a degree C in the worst case scenarios, it's not the 5*C that forum people might have you believe.

Oh, and if you're going for 4GHz on a 45nm multi-die quad, really watch those GTL reference values.