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Thread: Watercooling info

  1. #16
    Mako Shark
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    Originally posted by Pyro
    RADIATOR - Cooler Core Combo from Dtekcustoms with an extra D-Tek Core Fan Shroud Kit. Personally I'd go with the heatercore over BIX. I bet you would notice a 2-4 C drop over the BIX. But then again, the BIX is purdy, small, and compact, so both have their respective advantages/disadvantages.
    Why an additional shroud? where would I put it on the Cooler corew combo? seeing that it looks like it would only support one?
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  2. #17
    Mako Shark
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  3. #18
    GSD on patrol kenrippy's Avatar
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    Originally posted by speed freak


    If I did something like his, is there anything that I could improve? or is the VGA and CPU cooler he has top of the line? (remember, not really a price issue, but rather quality and performance issue) I'd rather pay more to get more outta something for just a few degrees immprovement, as I want to push my upcoming system to kingdom kong (with out dry ice ) Just click on MY SYSTEM link in my sig, and look at the bottom one, that is what I'm planning on using this setup on.
    the main diff between my setup and most others, is the lines are 3/8" OD and the blocks are a low flow design which are designed for smaller diameter tubing. I personally don't like 1/2" ID tubing because it's so damn big. immagine cooling your CPU, NB & GPU with such large tubing. IMO it makes the inside of your pc look like a home-made washing machine or something (can't come up w/ good analogy ) - mcgyver-ish. if I were just going to cool the CPU then I'd consider using the 1/2" ID tubing and go with a high flow block like the maze3. the actual temp difference between what I have and the larger tubing designed systems is insignificant. I wish someone would do a review on the Innovatek Rev.3 block and some other big name blocks.

    the heatercore vs. BIX debate is possibly won by the heatercore sold by dtek but I can't confirm it since I've never used one. the dual shroud theory is for a fan on each side (push/pull) method and would give better air flow, not sure if it would make a temp diff tho.

    edit: this is what I wanted to avoid

    Last edited by kenrippy; 10-21-2002 at 09:02 PM.

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  4. #19
    Mako Shark
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    lol.

    I honestly don't mind the thick tubing, ans my case would be closed and would NOT have a window

    So, overall, what do you think of the components I'm looking at so far?
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  5. #20
    Hammerhead Shark
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    I agree with kenrippy about the Maze 3. Main reason being is that you could purchase the Maze with per-assembled 1/2 fittings.

    BTY, that pic of the "1/2" watercooling setup is beautiful.

    Originally posted by speed freak


    Why an additional shroud? where would I put it on the Cooler corew combo? seeing that it looks like it would only support one?
    It supports 2. Check out nikhsub1's picture of his Pro Core in this thread. The shroud link you had provided kinda shows how the shroud is connected. Also the Pro Core is the same as the silver and unpainted cooler core radiator at dtekcustoms.

    Two is not necessarily needed, but your said it "I'd rather pay more to get more outta something for just a few degrees immprovement."


    You probably already know this, but just in case you didn't...OD means - Outer dimension, ID means - Inner Dimension. So the tubing would need 1/2ID while the adaptors/fittings would have 1/2OD to fit.


    I like the DD 9700 PRO waterblock you had choose.


    Are you still interested in the NB waterblock? If so, I'll have a good recommendation by tonight. Currently I'm reviewing users experiences with the different NB blocks. I still don't believe the NB block is necessary, a good active cooling HS would work fine. But the shroud isn't necessary either so...
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  6. #21
    Hammerhead Shark
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    Originally posted by speed freak
    lol.

    I honestly don't mind the thick tubing, ans my case would be closed and would NOT have a window

    So, overall, what do you think of the components I'm looking at so far?
    So far, so good. Except swap the MCW462-U for the Maze 3.
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  7. #22
    GSD on patrol kenrippy's Avatar
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    http://www.hwtec.de/Seite.htm here's a good page to see what's out there on the w/c market.

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  8. #23
    Hammerhead Shark
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    Excellent link kenrippy.

    For the NB, I like the Danger Den Z-Chip chipset waterblock. It would match the Maze 3 also.

    NOTE:
    "Mounts on motherboards with Center to Center Hole distances ranging form 2.10" - 2.43".


    There's a 250% chance your motherboard falls in this range, though with things like these I always(don't know why) check just to make sure.
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  9. #24
    Mako Shark
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    Ok, so the two extra fans will improve the cooling, so I'll stick with two

    Also, that maze 3 sounds like it is highly acclaimed, so that is on my list. As for OD, and ID, how does that work exactly? (sorry, I am TOTALY new to this water cooled setup thing.)
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  10. #25
    Mako Shark
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    Originally posted by kenrippy
    http://www.hwtec.de/Seite.htm here's a good page to see what's out there on the w/c market.
    Thanks kenrippy, gives a great perspective of what they should look like, if I gotta pick em out
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  11. #26
    Hammerhead Shark
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    Speedfreak, no problem. I had asked the exact same question at one time.

    This is a cut and paste from Cathar's Watercooling FAQ.

    "The tubing carries the water from component to component. Tubing can come in a variety of materials and sizes. It is of course best to choose the size of the tubing to match your components fittings.

    When considering the size of the tubing and matching it to your components, it's important to understand some of the terminology of fitting and tubing sizes. There are two measurements, being the "Inner Diameter" (or ID) and the "Outer Diameter" (or OD). The ID of a piece of tubing is pretty much all that you should be concerned with. The OD of tubing is near meaningless for our needs since it just defines how thick the walls of the tubing is when you know what the ID is.

    For fittings, it's important to not confuse ID and OD. You want the "Outer Diameter" of your fittings/barbs to match the "Inner Diameter" of your tubing. It's usually okay if the tubing's ID is up to 1.5mm (or 1/16") too small for the OD of a fitting, as most tubing can typically be stretched at least that much to fit. If you cannot match up a hose with a fitting size (because you may have fittings of differing OD sizes), then you will need to use a hose sizing adapter."
    Last edited by Pyro; 10-21-2002 at 11:30 PM.
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  12. #27
    Mako Shark
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    Originally posted by Pyro
    You want the "Outer Diameter" of your fittings/barbs to match the "Inner Diameter" of your tubing.
    I must be tired, I am sorry, I'll look into this tomorrow, as I am starting to feel like a fool, because I just can't seem to grasp it

    lol, I'll be back later on for a new lesson here, as I can barely type. Thanks all, (well, you two guys ) If you want, I am available here at MSN (I just said here at MSN ) u_r_puree@hotmail.com or, well, actually, my AIM, MSN, ICQ, and pretty much everything is in my profile, and my email that I actually check (hehe) is n.veryha@telus.net

    Well, better sign off before I end up leaning on my keyboard thingy (to tired to think of what it's called lmao) and breaking something.

    Sorry if I made you read the jibber jabber at the end, honest.

    Thanks again, and I'm gone as.................ZZZZZZZZZZZ, oh, where was I, oh yeah, of now
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  13. #28
    Hammerhead Shark
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    Its not a problem. It is quite simple. After it clicks in your head, you'll want to smack yourself.

    If only I had photoshop, it would be so much simplier. Anyways, go HERE and scroll down to the "2.5.3 Garden hosing" section. Notice the somewhat clear colored hose with a blue/gold line on it.

    The ID is the diameter of the "tunnel", the tunnel being where the water flows through. The OD/outer diameter is the whole diameter of the hose.

    Since the ID of the tubing would equals 1/2. The fittings/adaptors OD should equal 1/2. This makes a tight fit when both are connected together.
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  14. #29
    Mako Shark mellojoe's Avatar
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    Inner Diameter - Outer Diameter: Let's try to clear this up some more.

    If you take the first finger and thumb of your left hand and wrap them around the thumb of your right hand you get a connection. The left hand fingers make a tube and your thumb makes a fitting. The thickness of your thumb determines how large of an opening you need to make with your fingers. Right?

    It doesn't matter how thick your fingers are making the tube, since all that you are concerned about is that they wrap around your thumb.

    So, the INNER DIAMETER of the tube made with your fingers measures the hole size. The OUTER DIAMETER of your thumb also measure the hole size. Those two numbers need to match.

    However, it really doesn't matter what the outer diameter of your fingers (tube) is. Nothing is going to be wrapped around them.

    The pieces that need to match up are the INSIDE of the tube with the OUTSIDE of the fitting. Its like the male and female half of pipe connections. One peice has to be a bit smaller to fit inside the other. You have to match up the INSIDE of one piece with the OUTSIDE of the other piece.

    I hope that helps some.
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  15. #30
    Mako Shark
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    ohhhhh, ok, instead of smacking myself, you get to see a much better treat, me smashing my head against a brick wall



    Thanks
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