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  1. #46
    Mako Shark
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    sorry about not being too clear, but yes, that is what I meant (Y splitters ) So, the heat from the CPU, and NB, won't really affect the possibilties of the cooler temps for the GPU?
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  2. #47
    Hammerhead Shark
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    So, the heat from the CPU, and NB, won't really affect the possibilties of the cooler temps for the GPU? Hardly, performance would probably be worse with a Y splitter(s).
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  3. #48
    Mako Shark mellojoe's Avatar
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    That LiteOn case (the FS020) is huge. I've been keeping my eye on it for just that reason. It isn't all that tall, per se, but it is definately wider than most standard "ATX" cases.

    The nice thing is you can mount a very decent sized pump NEXT to the standard harddrive cage. There is that much room on the side of it. There is also a secondary harddrive cage up near the rear exhaust fan, underneath the power supply. That is a great place to put the pump, too, as it can be supported on the side and bottom of the pump, for safer moving (if you move with your w/c setup inside the case).

    The case also comes with 3 stock 120mm fan slots. Yes, 3 120mm fan openings. The front bezel has that great cover over the 120mm that allows air to flow behind and is just BEGGING to be modded (I'm envisioning a mini-cutout with a small cold cathode ).

    There is plenty of room to mount all your w/c gear in there.

    The way I'd do it if I had the $$$:
    I'd mount a medium-sized resevoir in the rear harddrive cage under the power supply. Behind it, in that 120mm hole, would be a low-speed Panaflo 120mm. In the 120mm below that would be a BIX (Black Ice eXtreme) radiator with a 120mm fan (again, probably a Panaflo low or medium). Mount your waterblocks (I'd want to do at least CPU and GPU, but I'm not terribly concerned about w/c northbridge). The front 120mm would be open for a 3rd Panaflo medium/low speed 120mm fan.

    That way you have decent air moving, very minimal noise, and great cooling.
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  4. #49
    Mako Shark
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    Thanks guys, I'll actually try to draw an image later on and show you my palns (as for Y, I will ditch it then) Also, I want to have a NB because I want HIGH FSB speeds and mem speeds.
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  5. #50
    Mako Shark
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    Originally posted by speed freak
    Thanks guys, I'll actually try to draw an image later on and show you my palns (as for Y, I will ditch it then) Also, I want to have a NB because I want HIGH FSB speeds and mem speeds.
    sorry, was tied up today, I'll have one by tomorrow
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  6. #51
    Tiger Shark Sinnersis's Avatar
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    Speed freak I suggest you vist the other thread in this forum:
    http://www.sharkyforums.com/showthre...02#post1203402
    Number1sixerfan has given me some brilliant links (I'm also new to water cooling) and from what I've read peltiers are not to be ignored. (Look at the temps number1sixerfan has quoted ).

    Also thanks to Pyro and Kennrippy for the info provided.
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  7. #52
    remember me? number1sixerfan's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Pyro
    speed freak, here are some answers for your future questions.

    Water flow: Pump ---> heatercore/radiator ---> CPU waterblock ---> NB waterblock ---> GPU waterblock ---> Reservior/bleed tube ---> back to the pump.

    Its exactly like kenrippy's.

    Bleeding your watercooling system
    With a fill & bleed assembly do you need an airtrap, reservoir, or none at all?
    Last edited by number1sixerfan; 10-26-2002 at 09:06 PM.

  8. #53
    Mako Shark
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    Originally posted by number1sixerfan


    With a fill & bleed assembly or do you need an airtrap, reservoir, or none at all?
    sorry, I really am clueless to what you are talking about

    I would like to know the difference between keeping it in a tank, and "bleeding" would you not need a tank still?
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  9. #54
    remember me? number1sixerfan's Avatar
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    Originally posted by speed freak


    sorry, I really am clueless to what you are talking about

    I would like to know the difference between keeping it in a tank, and "bleeding" would you not need a tank still?
    Sorry for the confusion, but I am not sure whether or not you still need a reservoir with a bleeding assembly. I thought you didn't. Anyone know?

  10. #55
    Hammerhead Shark
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    Originally posted by number1sixerfan


    With a fill & bleed assembly do you need an airtrap, reservoir, or none at all?
    At first in the thread I thought the fill/bleed tube was the right way to go. But after checking out the reservior kenrippy had, I recommended speedfreak the tube reservior instead.



    In the below flow chart, I had included both options of where the reservior or the bleed tube should be placed, not both.

    Water flow: Pump ---> heatercore/radiator ---> CPU waterblock ---> NB waterblock ---> GPU waterblock ---> Reservior/bleed tube ---> back to the pump.


    Sorry for the confusion, I didn't really state that in earliar posts.
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  11. #56
    remember me? number1sixerfan's Avatar
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    So you don't need both. It's either reservoir or fill & bleed assembly, correct? What's wrong with the fiil & bleed assembly?

  12. #57
    Hammerhead Shark
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    Originally posted by number1sixerfan
    So you don't need both. It's either reservoir or fill & bleed assembly, correct?
    Correct

    What's wrong with the fiil & bleed assembly?

    Nothing at all. I just think the tube reservior looks more professional.
    Last edited by Pyro; 10-27-2002 at 12:51 AM.
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  13. #58
    remember me? number1sixerfan's Avatar
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    Ok glad to clear that up. With a bleeding assembly there is no maintenace, so I think I'll go down that route. I saving up for A swiftech based WC rig.

  14. #59
    GSD on patrol kenrippy's Avatar
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    hey guys, sorry i've been out of town for a few days.

    regarding the Innovatek "Tank-O-Matic" reservoir and 1/2" tubing. I've seen it done before by using it without the retainer nuts that tighten and make the seal. you just slip the 1/2 tubing over the whole fitting and use a hose clamp or large zip tie to make the seal. It's kinda iffy if you ask me though.

    also on the tube type reservoir, the main thing is to have the INLET hose or tube way down low in the water so the air bubbles will not be sucked back into the lines. and have the OUTLET tube (the one that goes into the res) a couple inches higher than the inlet tube. the way Innovatek designed theirs is absolutely perfect. it makes for a guraanteed air gap:


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  15. #60
    Mako Shark
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    Originally posted by kenrippy
    hey guys, sorry i've been out of town for a few days.

    regarding the Innovatek "Tank-O-Matic" reservoir and 1/2" tubing. I've seen it done before by using it without the retainer nuts that tighten and make the seal. you just slip the 1/2 tubing over the whole fitting and use a hose clamp or large zip tie to make the seal. It's kinda iffy if you ask me though.

    also on the tube type reservoir, the main thing is to have the INLET hose or tube way down low in the water so the air bubbles will not be sucked back into the lines. and have the OUTLET tube (the one that goes into the res) a couple inches higher than the inlet tube. the way Innovatek designed theirs is absolutely perfect. it makes for a guraanteed air gap:


    so the water would drop down?

    also, so, a res. would be great, and I would not have to learn this new thing on bleed (how to do it) ?

    I want to thank you all for helping me out, as I am still in the dust as what this and that is and so on.
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