Stained tubing

[Saffire]

Took out my WCing, and my tubing is all stained blue from the UV dye. Is it still ok to use?

Also, my Dtek WW is a bit corroded on the inside, should I replace it? If so, what with?

[GLScooby]

If you are using the high end Tygon stuff, then yes, it should be fine. UV dye chemistry may be incompatible with some of the less expensive nylon tubing out there.

If you use a little antifreeze in your loop (like I do) you may also be seeing the 'magnetite layer' an intended microscopic film that forms on all interior surfaces of the cooling system. This is a corrosion inhibiting layer that is doing its job by forming on the insides of all your components. Reduced concentration or dilution of the additive in the loop water can lead to the break down of this protective layer, opening the door for corrosion and the reduced heat transfer that goes with it.

The trade off of using only water and no additive is not worth the risk of corrosion IMO.

Give all of your tubing runs a bend check. If you see any cracks open up by bending the tubing in several locations, obviously replace it.

If you've got the system down a drained already, I'd change the tubing anyway, unless as I said before, it is already Tygon. Tygon is incredible stuff. The staining you see is normal and I doubt it poses any danger.

[Saffire]

Cool beans. Half of it is Tygon, half is Clearflex, is that still ok?

Also, took apart my WW, the inside of the poly top is cracked a bit, the copper looks blackish but I assume thats ok?

[GLScooby]

Clearflex is good stuff too. no worries with either as they are both brand-name quality tubing. I'd still give it all a bend test to be sure though.

I got the alu topped Dtek WW for just that reason.

ANY crack in the poly top = BAD

I would replace that ASAP. Not worth the risk. No way, no how. The black inside of the block is normal, sort of. I'd recommend a light brushing of the inside with a non-metallic bristle brush like a toothbrush, and consider some type of antifreeze protectant in your next blend (or increase the concentration if you were already adding it)

I drained my system after about 6 mo of continuous use to get a 'state of the system' check and found the inside of the WW to only be slightly darker than it was right out of the box. I was running a pretty high concentration of antifreeze, so my level of metal protection was very high, at the expense of some heat transfer capability. I'm now on my second charge of fluid, where I decreased the concentration of coolant slightly in order to get my UV dye to work, lol. I still have the concentration a bit too high for the UV dye to really work effectively, but I'm sure the system is properly protected.

I'll be draining and checking again in late March, I'll let you know the condition of the components when I do if you are interested.

[Saffire]

Yea, I think this time around I was testing out water + Windshield Washer Fluid. Next time I'm gonna give Zerex a shot.

Damn, maybe I should go ahead and replace the entire block then, maybe give the Swiftech MCW-6002 a shot. I read somewhere that the aluminum top isn't too great for your system either :\ Unless I can find that place which sold the replacement copper tops, but even then they were like $30 which is almost the price of a new block.

Yeah, keep me updated please

[GLScooby]

Originally posted by Saffire
I read somewhere that the aluminum top isn't too great for your system either :\

You are referring to electrolytic corrosion. The presence of 2 dissimilar metals in a current carrying electrolyte causes an ion exchange and breakdown of one of the metals. In this case it is the aluminum. Yet another reason to use antifreeze, as it retards the current carrying ability of the water to a negligible amount.

That stuff designed by the NASA guy is supposed to be totally non-conductive and still have excellent heat transfer properties. Lemme find it....


....here it is:

Fluid XP - Sold by Dtek Customs no doubt

[Saffire]

Whew, too expensive for my blood. I checked over my CPU block again, Its not a crack, more of a lil chip, but underneath it looks solid. Should I go ahead and order a new block/top anyway?

[GLScooby]

I'm of the thinking that the cost of a new top is miniscule compared to the cost of replacing a video card, mobo, etc.

To me it's a no-brainer. Replace.

[Saffire]

Yup, broke down and purchased the MCW-6002, and Brasstop Maze-4 blocks to replace my WW and MCW50.

Redid cables and whatnot as well, might have to take pictures

[GLScooby]

Sweet. Can't wait to see 'em. Grats on the new block. Read good things about it.

[talldude]

Originally posted by GLScooby

....here it is:

Fluid XP - Sold by Dtek Customs no doubt

That stuff looks sort of like mouthwash...lol.

[GLScooby]

Originally posted by talldude
That stuff looks sort of like mouthwash...lol.

Ironically, the guy states all of the ingredients are listed by the EPA as "drinkable".......*gulp*

[zackbass]

I'm not much a chemistry guy, but the ingredients list drew my interest.

Propylene Glycol
Deionized Water
Xanthan Gum
1-dodeconol (Lauryl Alcohol)
Glycerin
Bacteriostat (cetylpyridinium Chloride)
Additional company trade secret ingredients

Now, when I see deinoized water I think "short term protection". Will one of the other ingredients effectively stop the metal from the radiator and waterblock from being picked up by the water molecules and making it conductive again?

[GLScooby]

That is what the PG prevents. The formation of the magnetite layer on the internal surfaces performs 2 main functions.

1) It 'seals' the surfaces from interaction with the fluid it carries,

and

2) Forms the outside boundary layers which allow for true Langmuir flow, although Langmuir is more often associated with higher viscosity fluids such as lube oil. The theory still stands and merely contains more intermediate layers as opposed the the fewer layers formed by highly viscous fluids.

[zackbass]

So it's counting on a physical interface between any metal parts and the deionized water? I'm probably asking in the wrong place, but wouldn't any point of turbulence on a metal surface (copper most likely in a WC system) cause a breakdown in this effect? It seems almost all waterblocks are specifically designed to maximize turbulence along every metal surface in order to expose the greatest amount of water to the heat source and would do an admirable job of making sure that the water quickly became reionized.