Watercooling Pumps - is Bilge pump ok?

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Thread: Watercooling Pumps - is Bilge pump ok?

  1. #1
    Mako Shark mellojoe's Avatar
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    Post Watercooling Pumps - is Bilge pump ok?

    Hey, I found some 500 gal/hr "bilge" pumps. Mainly used in boating. They are in the $30 range which is a lot cheaper than the $70 pumps I'm looking at now that only push around 300 gal/hr.

    I'm trying to remember the brand, but I found them at Wal-Mart. I know that "Wally World" usually has sub-par quality stuff. But, if I can find some better quality "bilge" pumps for less than an Eheim pump that pushes the same amount of water flow, will it work?

    I found some resevoir type bilge pumps and some inline type from the same company. Will they work?

    EDIT: Oh yeah. They are 12vDC and run in the range of 1 to 4 amps (maybe not even 4 amps, I'm going off memory which is not that great ) for different models.

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    [This message has been edited by mellojoe (edited November 19, 2001).]
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  2. #2
    Hammerhead Shark
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    in a word, nope.

    i haven't had any experiences myself, but this has been brought up many times over at the www.hardforums.com overclocking and coolng section, and it always gets shot down.

    reason being the bilge pumps are not designed or made to run continuously. that's why everyone uses fish tank pumps. they are designed to run constantly.

    deez

  3. #3
    Mako Shark mellojoe's Avatar
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    Oh. I see...

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    Great White Shark Un4given's Avatar
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    Whatever pump you decide to get, make sure you check how the impeller is attached to the impeller shaft. Many fish tank pumps give the impeller slack movement on the shaft. The reason for this is that these pumps were designed for fish aquariums where debris might be sucked it. This slack movement is there to prevent damage if that should occur. In a sealed system for your computer this is not a concern, but may generate excess vibration noise. If the impeller has slack play on the shaft, use some good epoxy and glue the impeller to the shaft to eliminate this slack. I had to remove my water cooling system recently and this made a substantial difference in the amount of noise made by the pump. Now it's just a very quiet hum.

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    Super Shark ynd69's Avatar
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    Best pumps - Eheim or Danner Mag drive pumps..

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    Quote Originally Posted by mellojoe View Post
    Hey, I found some 500 gal/hr "bilge" pumps. Mainly used in boating. They are in the $30 range which is a lot cheaper than the $70 pumps I'm looking at now that only push around 300 gal/hr.

    I'm trying to remember the brand, but I found them at Wal-Mart. I know that "Wally World" usually has sub-par quality stuff. But, if I can find some better quality "bilge" pumps for less than an Eheim pump that pushes the same amount of water flow, will it work?

    I found some resevoir type bilge pumps and some inline type from the same company. Will they work?

    EDIT: Oh yeah. They are 12vDC and run in the range of 1 to 4 amps (maybe not even 4 amps, I'm going off memory which is not that great ) for different models.

    ------------------
    MelloJoe
    OC Knight of the OC Crusades
    AMD Thunderbird 750mhz @ 900mhz (6 x 150mhz :-D)

    My Computer Specs with Images

    [This message has been edited by mellojoe (edited November 19, 2001).]

    well a few things to consider duty cycle and chemical compatibility http://www.mailspeedmarine.com/bilge...2-144381.bhtml

    this pump should meet both of those a bildge pump is designed for sewage most bilge pumps are momentary use then you have some that are bildge/shower/utility pumps so you could have 2 or 3 extra pumps on hand if one breaks rather it be for bildge water deck washing or fresh water its the same pump now if its designed for sewage of salt water then coolant should not be a problem salt water is a major corrosion issue so then you just have chemical compatibility with the seals if its a standard metal or silicone gasket no problem if its a rubber diaphragm then i would worried ethanol glycerol might be an issue ammonia glycerol is far less reactive and should be fine i have yet to ask a company to verify some units also claim to be oil restraint so when we add sewage salt water and oil resistant something tells me ammonia and ethanol glycerol no problem i know distilled water a few drops of an anti fungi would not harm these pumps some are made of brass and distilled water causes problems with copper this can be solved with extra anti fungi witch is normally copper sulfide if i am not mistaking well a sacrificial anode and do not forget to change it i would put at least 2 sacrificial anodes in one before the pump and one after the pump then make sure to ground the pump the computer case the reservoir and all the cooling blocks to the same ground with very heavy wire 10 or even 8 gauge would not be over kill this is needed to make sure any stray current does not go though the water but goes though the wire instead if you were in a house or server room i would put in a a dedicated ground for this right next to the main service ground and run a 6 or 4 gauge wire from the computer area to this ground this may seem over kill but the main fault to any water cooling system is corrosion and marine grade equipment is designed with this problem in mind

    https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...ed=0CHcQpiswAQ another thing to consider

    most ac outlets have a 12 volt leak from neutral to ground this leak is not easy to detect from hot to neutral without an oscilloscope but its there for the most part it will not get past a transformer or your computer power supply witch is DC to start with but when it comes to corrosion dc power is your enemy ac is ideal and at that high frequency 200 or even 300 hz but i do not know of any motors designed to run off that type of power besides a brushless dc motor but then the control cicruit still takes a DC input the ideal goal would be to have no DC any ware near any of the water with a computer this is not gonna happen so grounding becomes an big a big issue

    and according to RV forms a sacrificial anode should not be used with aluminum hot water tanks as the tank it self would become the anode so if you got any aluminum tubing and or blocks replace them with copper besides it will be easier to solder your ground wires to them note on tubing bend tubing then attach a ground wire and a short 14 or even 16 gauge wire leading to a block that has an 8 gauge wire on it would be more ideal due to how the tube will still flex a bit if you have brass fittings then you do not have to ground your tubing the brass fitting will it self will be slightly dissimilar then that of the copper and not much you can do about it from a grounding stand stand point as shortest path will be that brass fitting due to its size unless you have it lined with a plastic insulator to make a break in the circuit then a grounding bridge is a must as it will corrode the gap now if you apply Teflon tape make sure to leave the upper part of the thread uncovered and make sure you thread it all the way down to this uncovered thread now some silver bearing lead free electrical solder would be of some benefit you can use non lead free but conductivity is not as good but lead free will always have a much high melting temperature to so be aware of the temperature limits of your Teflon tape the goal is to provide a shorter path to ground that avoids the water so in the case of of dialectic fitting maintaining a constant ground on the dry surface is a must or your currsion will increase water cooling is more about plumbing then it is computers and at that plumpers just ground the pipe and isolate the hot water tank job done as other factors cause more were but in a computer you got allot of DC pulses taking place that can and will induce current into your lines

    running your power lines across your water and not along side is must non metal tubing is a good idea if your return is to hot for venial tubing then your defeating the point of liquid cooling with to small of a unit if your return is 10 degrees warmer then room temperature you need more cooling if you ask me

    the right parts are a matter of parts built to the right specs rather or not they are marketed for this porpoise if somebody made a 400 dollar pump with a high frequency breathless motor and a highly shielded motor control circuit and blocks with a copper base and inside surface coated in brass with fins with 1/4 inch spacing inside and a spot for sacrificial anode inside the block as well as inside the reservoir and on both sides of the pump and with grounding tabs on every part and copper shielded venal tubing i would be willing to pay 800 dollars for that system as i know it would last 10 years or more and the coolant would last a year as no current would be passing though it

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