Miniature Painting Thread

[taggart6]

Since at least 4 of us are talking about it (and I know there are like 3 other closet mini painters here), I figure I would start a new thread to keep the talk more organized and out of the kickstarter thread.


Some videos I found that help me understand some basics.

A wash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlJVubeExvk

Drybrushing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWl8-cozI5w

Bases:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j5z_C5qIvD8&

[Kamakazie]

So what you're saying is, all I need to do is get an Army Painter red spray primer, then wash it with red, and I will have an awesome looking mini? SOUNDS GOOD!

[SewerUrchin]

http://www.worldworksgames.com/forum...p?f=73&t=11588

I started that thread with a similar goal over at WWG. Make sure and check out some of the awesome resources listed.

Also, I would love to add anyone else to my list of contacts so that we can Skype or use Google Hangout to screw up painting together

[Timman_24]

I had some time to upload the photos I took a day ago.

Reaper Miniatures in the package. Note the price! A great value even at full retail, crazy how we are going to be getting them at 50 cents each!

The miniatures are well detailed. The pose of the zombies is pretty funny, they look like they are doing the "L for loser" sign haha.

The size of these miniatures struck me as a little small when I first saw them. I found that this is mainly because of how bulky the GW models usually are. The scale actually seems to be the same as the standard table top models. For comparison I put them next to a normal Space Marine and a Nob Ork, which is a larger GW Ork.

Top view of the same line up as before. I kind of wish the models came with a standard base receptacle so that I could easily add a custom base without cutting on the model, but the bases that come molded onto the models are nicely detailed.

Unlike what other reviews have stated, there are noticeable mold lines on these models. They are not any worse than other models I have seen, but they are there.

Here is a quality comparison of my best brush compared to a medium "hobby" brush and a cheapo brush. The left brush is a high quality, natural Sable hair brush made by Raphael. This size 0 brush is my main brush. The middle brush is a typical Reaper/GW/etc type brush that you would pick up from a LHS. Its a good brush, but definitely not as nice as the natural hair brush. The last brush is what you would find in a "paint kit" or in a large pack of economy brushes. These are good for painting terrain, some dry brushing, mixing paint, and doing things that may damage the better brushes.

The top image shows the brushes dry and the lower image shows the brushes wet, ready to paint. Notice the very sharp tip on the quality brush. To give you an idea of price difference, the Raphael costs around 20-25 dollars, the middle brush is a 4-5 dollar brush, and the cheap-o is a 50 cent brush.

This is a very easy and cheap way to make a handle + stand for the minis while you paint. Buy a pack of hot glue sticks for around 3 dollars and cut them to around six inches. Take a lighter and heat the end of the stick until it just melts a bit. Apply the bottom of the base to the stick and it will instantly make a secure bond. Do the same to the other end and stick it to a piece of cardboard. The glue stick holds well, but is easily removed from the bottom by twisting it off. It won't leave any residue behind.

I started painting them, but haven't taken any pictures of that yet. I'll upload some progress pictures tomorrow. I also have a little video showing how bendy they are and how to do the glue stick stand.

[[PinPals]Apu]

Guess I'm one of those closet painters. I paint Grey Knights (W40k), but I'm super slow at it. There's so much detail on each mini and I'm anal about detail, so it takes me forever to get a model to the point I can call it done.

[taggart6]

I like the gluestick and cardboard idea. Quick, easy, and cheap.

[SewerUrchin]

I swung by my FLGS Sunday and they tried to tell me that Bones weren't out yet. I said that I was told there are about 30 miniatures released and they said that they don't stock much Reaper stuff and so are often behind when it comes to them

They are a GW store that has a minimal amount of a bunch of other things.

[Kamakazie]

Those 40k minis look great, Timman! I'll take a picture of my Mechs later on tonight. I've got one primed white, another primed black and about 26 waiting for their turn to be sprayed.

How much should I be watering down my paints for the base coat? For the wash?

Also, I would love to add anyone else to my list of contacts so that we can Skype or use Google Hangout to screw up painting together

I'd be down for that. Failing together should help keep our spirits up!

[taggart6]

Timman, what spray gun and compressor do you use? I'm looking at picking one up.

Considering this: http://www.amazon.com/PAASCHE-AIRBRU...+%C2%91H%C2%92

or

http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Depot...ef=pd_sbs_ac_3

[Timman_24]

Those 40k minis look great, Timman! I'll take a picture of my Mechs later on tonight. I've got one primed white, another primed black and about 26 waiting for their turn to be sprayed.

How much should I be watering down my paints for the base coat? For the wash?

I'd be down for that. Failing together should help keep our spirits up!

It is hard to give exact amounts because so much can vary, the "rule of thumb" is to mix it the consistency of skim milk, but I've always hated that metric. What the hell do I know about skim milk? The best advice I can give is to experiment a bit and mix via how the paint should act. Here's a quite list of things to look for:

***Base coat***
Too thin, add paint:
-Paint is not covering the high points
-Paint is pooling or running to the recesses
-It is taking more than 3-4 coats to give even coverage over the mini
-The pigments are clustering or breaking into groups

Too thick, add thinner/water:
-Paint is not laying smoothly over the surface of the mini
-Paint is showing brush strokes
-The primer is being completely covered in one coat
-Some details are being filled in
-The paint is not wicking out of the brush

For a wash, the paint should "flow" out of the brush by simply touching the model. It is harder to give exact conditions or criteria to go by with a wash, which is why I recommended earlier to go with a pre-mixed wash such as GW's Shading Line or Reaper washes. I mix my own washes, and I can give you guys the "recipe" if you want it. You'll have to take a trip to Hobby Lobby or Michaels though. A very nice wash consists of using inks .

[Timman_24]

Timman, what spray gun and compressor do you use? I'm looking at picking one up.

I use an Iwata HP-CS airbrush. I also use a twin piston compressor from TCP (as you can see they are the supplier on Amazon.) Definitely check out their website: http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdepot/

They have some fantastic kits there.

For a budget air brush I would recommend looking at Badger brushes. Paasche is good too. I'd get a gravity fed, internal mix, dual action brush. Make sure it has all metal parts, otherwise you will have a harder time trying to clean it when using oil based paints or even some acrylics.

I'm glad you asked though, because you are linking to a tankless compressor, which I would not recommend. There is no buffer between the compressor and the air coming out of the brush. You get inconsistent pressure due to the piston going up and down. Also it runs constantly every time you spray. I'd look at a compressor with a tank such as this one: http://www.tcpglobal.com/airbrushdep...mno=ABD+TC-20T

I have the dual piston version of that model and love it.

[Timman_24]

I uploaded some videos:

[Kamakazie]

My Mechs!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mhenm7vfl7...2020.29.12.jpg

The one that's primed black is a WTH-1 Whitworth and the one that's primed white is a DRG-1N Dragon, both from the BattleTech 25th Anniversary box.
I noticed that they've still got a lot of extra crap around them from the mold, so I'm going to have to go around the whole thing with a file.

[SewerUrchin]

Nice videos Tim. Can you do a flex test after paint? I would love to see if these things can get banged up in a box or with my kid (as in comparison to my DDM stuff).

Error 404 Kama.

Who has used spray primers? What do you suggest? I have heard everything from cheap Wal-Mart paint to official miniature primers like army painter to airbrush compressors. What is best looking? What is easiest? What is the best bang for the buck?

[[PinPals]Apu]

Who has used spray primers? What do you suggest? I have heard everything from cheap Wal-Mart paint to official miniature primers like army painter to airbrush compressors. What is best looking? What is easiest? What is the best bang for the buck?

I use the Walmart stuff. .99 for a big can of white (or black). Has always worked well for me.