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Has anyone used copper pipe (the kind you can bend) instead of tubing for a water cooling setup? I'm finally putting a water cooling setup together and think that copper would look much better than tubes all over the place, and I already have all the tools to do the job. Also, which radiator do you think fits best in a PC-60 case and where?
Wouldn't the copper tube act as a radiator? That would help temps, really good idea! You would still need a 'real' radiator though.
What is your budget for the radiator? http://www.caseetc.com/cgi-bin/caseetc/WC-416.html this one would match the tubing... But its $75.
I've been looking at that one, but would like to know if anyone has actually put it in a PC-60 yet. And that is just about at the limit of my budget.
The main problem with copper tubing would be condensation, maybe a good thick spay of clear coat would alleviate the condenation.
depending on how much the copper tubing has to bend - that may inhibite the flow throughout, since, as you bend the pipe, the area for the water to travl through, becomes less, unless you do very gradual turns!Quote:
Originally posted by zackbass
I've been looking at that one, but would like to know if anyone has actually put it in a PC-60 yet. And that is just about at the limit of my budget.
The main problem with copper tubing would be condensation, maybe a good thick spay of clear coat would alleviate the condenation.
I expect a maximum number of bends in a single pipe will be about 4. I am planning each part of the system to sepeartey connect to a water header, so one pipe with a lower amount of flow will not affect the whole system. The bends in the pipe will not so much make the inside volume of the pipe less, but will decrease flow. I do not expect to need an extremely high throughput system though. Also, the copper pipe will probably be either 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch, about the same size of pipe used to supply a sink or toilet.
Only thing I don't like about soft copper is the connections. You can either use compression fittings, or flare fittings.
Compression fittings, you use em once, maybe twice before you have to cut them off and put another compression ring on.
Flare fittings would be nice, but then you have to buy a flaring tool. Cheap ones are around $20, but you'll need to practice a lot as you can crack the flare and it will leak. Of course there are the nice Rigid flaring tools that automatically stop when it has the correct flare.
There's always solder fittings, but solder and soft copper don't go well together.
I was thinking about using hard copper and solder fittings, but vinyl tubing is so much easier :)
you can do what you would call sweating your fittings like the plumbing in your houseQuote:
Originally posted by jubjub
Only thing I don't like about soft copper is the connections. You can either use compression fittings, or flare fittings.
Compression fittings, you use em once, maybe twice before you have to cut them off and put another compression ring on.
Flare fittings would be nice, but then you have to buy a flaring tool. Cheap ones are around $20, but you'll need to practice a lot as you can crack the flare and it will leak. Of course there are the nice Rigid flaring tools that automatically stop when it has the correct flare.
There's always solder fittings, but solder and soft copper don't go well together.
I was thinking about using hard copper and solder fittings, but vinyl tubing is so much easier :)
I've done more than my fair share of sweating pipes in my house. I constantly get pinhole leaks everywhere. I am planning on using compression fittings with a bit of silicone to seal them better. Also does snyone know anything about machining copper that differs from normal machining practice? I am going to mill my own water blocks for the CPU, GPU and chipset, and some tips would really help. I see all the homeade water block jobs online, and I am really glad that I have the right tools for the job.
when machining copper go slow dont let it bite too much, copper gumms up up real easy. i have broken tapps off in $10'000 block machined for a DC rectifier spent a whole day chipping a broken 10mm tap out:mad: without dammaging the copper.Quote:
Originally posted by zackbass
I've done more than my fair share of sweating pipes in my house. I constantly get pinhole leaks everywhere. I am planning on using compression fittings with a bit of silicone to seal them better. Also does snyone know anything about machining copper that differs from normal machining practice? I am going to mill my own water blocks for the CPU, GPU and chipset, and some tips would really help. I see all the homeade water block jobs online, and I am really glad that I have the right tools for the job.
i have never had pinholes from sweating copper pipes!
I meant that the pipes are so old that they constantly get pinhole leaks. Thanks for the info, I have only do a lot of machining on steel and aluminum :)
just remember go slow copper gums upQuote:
Originally posted by zackbass
I meant that the pipes are so old that they constantly get pinhole leaks. Thanks for the info, I have only do a lot of machining on steel and aluminum :)
All my machinist books show high speeds, just like aluminum
650-800 surface feet per minute. 5000-8000rpm with a 1/2" end mill
Or if you're a wimp like me and get scared when you crank the milling machine up to 5000rpm. I usually take it down to 3500-4000rpm when working with Al, of course your feed will be slower.
If you can wait till tomorrow, i'll try to get a coolant/ cutting fluid recomendation. I'd bet it's kerosene just like alum
meat: sweating fittings, and soldering fittings are the same thing.
I think they have bending machines, or handheld gadgets for bending copper.
That's exactly what I'm planning on using. I can wait a while more for some tips becasue I won't have the stock and design for a week or two. Also what is your favorite waterblock design?Quote:
Originally posted by rusty c
I think they have bending machines, or handheld gadgets for bending copper.
sorry i'm in the south we call it sweating:D and by going slow on machining the copper i meant the feedQuote:
Originally posted by jubjub
All my machinist books show high speeds, just like aluminum
650-800 surface feet per minute. 5000-8000rpm with a 1/2" end mill
Or if you're a wimp like me and get scared when you crank the milling machine up to 5000rpm. I usually take it down to 3500-4000rpm when working with Al, of course your feed will be slower.
If you can wait till tomorrow, i'll try to get a coolant/ cutting fluid recomendation. I'd bet it's kerosene just like alum
meat: sweating fittings, and soldering fittings are the same thing.