They just hit the next milestone and now golems are included in the vampire package.
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They just hit the next milestone and now golems are included in the vampire package.
Necromancers now. Dammit, I think I'm going to pledge. There is just so damn much to pass up. Also, grab a paint set if you can. Their paints retail for $3.50 each and go for around $2.50 at the bare minimum. So those $18 dollars sets would normally cost $30. I've used their paints before and they are fantastic.
I painted these guys exclusively with Reaper paints, still a WIP but you can see how nicely the paint lays on the figures. It is really hard to get a smooth/even finish with most paints, but these are very easy to work with:
http://www.sharkyforums.com/images/i.../2012/08/2.jpg
I'm thinking I will pick up a paint set, the clockwork dragon, and the forces of nature. Sure does add up...
http://1000footgeneral.blogspot.com/...-any-good.html
That is an in-depth review of the Bones line.
I am excited to see what happens with the surprise reveals today. I need to really figure out what I want/need for add ons. I am thinking all the paints (never painted before so stocking up for cheap sounds like a good idea) plus one or two things, but we shall see.
I pledged 123. I'm going to swap out Sophie and get forces of nature + clockwork dragon + undead paint set. I might order a cheap mini through their website to check them out soon.
I pledged $200 and have never painted a mini before. What have I gotten myself into?!?!?
Looks like there is a decent chance this will overtake DoubleFine's rank in funding level ($35k and over an hour)
I upped my pledge to 133 so I could get that new dragon they introduced a bit ago. He looks awesome. I may ride out to my LHS tomorrow and pick up a few Bones figures to practice on.
I am thinking about going to my FLGS today or tomorrow for the same reason and maybe getting a lesson.
Have you purchased brushes yet? If not, don't get them at the LHS. Go to Hobby Lobby, they have tons of brushes and they are much more reasonably priced. I'd get one of those plastic drums with 20+ brushes for around 9.99 to use for base coating or tasks that do not need a fine touch. I'd get a few decent brushes in sizes: 0/5, 0, 1, 2, and 5. Round tip. Get natural bristle if they have any. The synthetic sable brushes are decent too. If you end up really enjoying painting, then order some nice Sable brushes like the Raphael Red Sable.Quote:
Originally Posted by SewerUrchin
I have not. I will spend some time tonight and tomorrow researching this. Amazon (or some other online retailer) may be getting my money then and I can use Youtube for lessons in order to prevent hanging out at the store (not a favorite past time of mine).Quote:
Originally Posted by Timman_24
I'm trying to paint some Mechs for my BattleTech game right now and am worried about doing an absolutely terrible job of it. If you guys find any great online resources for learning how to paint minis, please pass that along!
Will do. Also, for those that are interested. It sounds like many of the deals from Reaper from this Kickstarter will be available in their pledge manager. You might even be able to buy into the same stuff at the same price.
http://weeklyad.michaels.com/stores/3059/coupons
Check that out for 45% off brushes...
I wrote a few getting started tutorials a couple of years ago on my Warhammer 40k blog if you guys are interested. I have a paint and brush guide on there too that gives a brief overview. Feel free to check it out:
http://warmaster40k.com/category/tutorials/
if you want to do a lot of guys in a short amount of time, dipping may be the way to go. I have a quick guide for that too:
http://warmaster40k.com/2009/06/06/f...-dipping-orks/
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I've done numerous minis.
A few quick tips: Be sure you thin your paint. Painting right out of the pot will never give good results unless you are applying a pre-mixed wash. I always prime before base coating. I recommend spray priming to give a nice thin coat for the paint to bond to. To prime, buy the cheapest Walmart spray paint that you can find. You want the spray paint to be really thin. Choose white, gray, or black to prime with depending on what the top coat needs to look like. Gray is usually the best to go for followed by black. White should only be used in rare occasions.
When thinning your paint, mix up a one gallon jug of water with one or two drops of dish soap. The dish soap will act as a cheap flow aid, which will let the paint lay on the model easier. It breaks the surface tension of the water so it can get into the cracks easier. This is especially important for washes.
The easiest way to get good results is a 5 step process. 1) Prime 2) Even base coat 3) Wash 4) Highlight 5) light wash again. A base coat is not always only one color. A base coat is usually 3-4 different colors in the various areas of interest on the model. For instance, an Ork may have green skin, brown leather, metallic metal bits, and red armor. Each areas gets its respective color. The base coat should go on in 3-4 coats, not in one or two. If you base coat the entire thing in one coat, then it is too thick. A wash consists of thinned paint with extra flow aid. Washing the entire model shades the recesses and gives continuity to the paint job. I usually dab extra wash in the deep portions of the model, such as the eyes, clothing recesses, and joints. A highlight uses the same consistancy of the base coat with a bit lighter shade. I usually do one shade lighter and then another shade lighter on the very high points such as the tip of an axe or the very top fold of a piece of clothing. The final wash is mixed very thin and is used to pull the entire model together, to give consistency to the paint job. It should be twice as thin or more than the initial wash.
Finally, pick out the details such as the eyes, fingers, buckles, etc at the end. This is where you can spend a lot of time giving the model a lot of detail.
I usually like to spray my models with matte clear coat to give them extra durability, but that is optional. There are a lot of other techniques such as inking (which can give incredible depth to the model), free hand designs, base terrain, working with metallics, making your own wash, and such that you will learn over time.
Definitely let me know if you have any questions and I can try to help you out. I've done a ton of research and have painted quite often.
I found some good videos for painting a while ago. One that is extremely in-depth and may be a bit too much for a novice is a series called Miniature Mentor. Also, Privateer Press published a great beginning DVD.
Thanks. I will bookmark your page. I am thinking of going with a cheap set of brushes from somewhere and maybe a halfway decent one or two. That way I can try them out and use them for dry brushing later. Also, you mentioned not preferring black primer, but I have been reading that many rank it black>white>gray.
Have you tried Greybrushing? (read about it here: http://www.enworld.org/forum/media-l...pbell-way.html)
I would love for your to let me know what you think about the Bones line, since it seems many people say you don't need to prime it.
Wow...240 miniatures for the 100 level. I had a wedding to go to and was unable to add more. I wanted to throw in another 20 for some other stuff and it sounds I might be able to once the new manager is released since vampire level donators are grandfathered in. That said, I figure I won't start painting for a while.