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You will be able to modify your pledge (what add ons you pick and even increasing, but not decreasing your pledge) when their pledge manager goes out. The email said it could take two weeks and would be up for about 30 days.Quote:
Originally Posted by taggart6
Black is good, I use it quite a bit. The reason I rank gray higher for beginners is because gray is easier to cover with a base coat. White is pretty hard to deal with because pigments such as yellow and red have a hard time covering it and sometime end up looking far too bright. I actually use black the most, but I do a black airbrush coat then a monochromatic coat using the airbrush. This works great for units that are mainly one color like Space Marines. Black gives the deepest color depth IMO, but it is a little harder to do just right than a medium gray. Definitely try both though, depending on your paint scheme black may be better.Quote:
Originally Posted by SewerUrchin
Usually a novice painter gets frustrated with black and they end up putting on a thick coat to cover it. When I brush coat over black, it usually takes 5-6 coats to get smooth coverage. Since I bought my airbrush it only takes 1-2 coats. I can prime and totally base a squad of 10 space marines in about 15 minutes with my air brush. Doing it by hand would take 2+ hours :)
You have to think about your paint scheme too. That Cthulu model, I would do black since he has a lot of deep crevices and will be a darker scheme. Something like a wizard would be good to do in gray due to the clothing and skin tones. Skeletons are good for white. Prime white, wash with black/charcoal, and finish the armor and bits. As you can see it is totally contextual.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SewerUrchin
Dear lord was that thread helpfull. Greybrushing sounds like a solid way to go.
I agree, that whole thread was simply captivating, but then it ends so abruptly. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by taggart6
I feel like I'm missing something in regards to the "greybrushing" though. Why does he prime black then paint black before drybrushing the grey/white on there? Is that extra "paint it black" step necessary? What purpose does it serve?
I had my brother pick up some Bones models while he was out today. I've got some images, but I'll post them in the morning. First impression was that they are smaller than I was expecting, but he only brought home a pack of Orc Archers and a pack of Zombies. Both would be traditionally smaller units, so I'm sure the other models can get quite big. The material is very strange for a model. I've never seen models that use such a bendy plastic. I can literally hold the base of the model and bend the head of the zombie all the way to the ground. I shot a short video of this demonstration that I'll post tomorrow.
I started painting the orcs tonight. Immediately I realized that you can not apply paint directly out of the package, at least with the ones I have. There is some sort of mold release chemical on the surface. The paint runs and pulls together. I applied a rub of isopropyl alcohol with a "dry brush" quite liberally and there was a drastic difference. The paint held very well after the rub. You definitely have to at least rub them down with alcohol. For the larger models that I will be spending time with, I will definitely rub them down AND spray prime them to ensure good adhesion.
Unlike what some of the other reviews have stated, there is noticeable flashing left over from the mold (aka mold lines.) They are not any worse than, say, GW models but it is still there. The bad part is that since the model is made out of a rubbery material, my normal method of removing the lines with a reversed rub down the mold line with a modeling knife doesn't work. There is no easy way that I could find to remove them other than directly cutting them with the modeling knife, which can be very tough to do correctly. I removed the noticeable bits on the head and arms, but didn't get too into cleaning them since these are just practice pieces.
I'll post some images of the process tomorrow. I may do a full write up on my website once I'm finished. I figured out a really good way of applying a handle to these models so I don't have to touch them while painting. It includes a hot glue stick, a lighter, and a piece of card board. I'll show more tomorrow :)
They way I read it, he does an initial black prime with spray paint but then goes over the nooks and crannies with black paint and a fine brush to make sure he really gets it all in there. After that, he does heavy to medium drybrushing with grey paint and then medium to light with white as the last step.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakazie
I like how this guy mounts his minis on to old paint bottles when he paints. I think I shall do the same. Notice that with his painting hand he uses the thumb and forefinger to hold the brush while the the other fingers hold the model. The greybrushing thread suggested this as well for stable hands. Nice to see how it works.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZgXZk74oUI
As for gray brushing, it seems like he doesn't do a wash. Instead he seems to build up his paint, dark to light. That's a great way to do it. For me, the wash covers all the nooks and crannies. A wash is easier for me because it shades the regions less harshly than dry brushing. Dry brushing is a bit harder to do than simply laying on a wash. Definitely try both and see what works best for you. I don't like to spend much time priming though. I may try his technique for fun to see how it turns out.
What is a wash exactly? Right now my plan consisted of spraying on primer + basecoat then painting right on top of that. Is this not the way to go?
That's the basic way to do it, but a wash is simply paint that is watered down more than usual. It usually has some sort of flow aid in it as well, such as a very small amount of dish soap or future floor polish, to break the surface tension of the water and allow the wash to prefer the lower regions of the model when applied. The steps would be like this: Prime -> Base coat -> paint all the major colors on the model -> wash -> highlight and detail.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakazie
A BIG note, washes can be kind of tough to mix correctly. I HIGHLY recommend buying a premixed wash for your first few minis. GW makes fantastic washes such as Badab Black. However, GW recently changed from calling them "washes" to calling them shades. I haven't used their new line, but it should work much the same as their old line. Pick a brown/sepia and a black wash, as they are the most often used. Reaper also makes great washes. You may still need to water them down a bit, you'll just have to experiment.
Check out this quick tutorial from GW to see how washes work:
https://www.games-workshop.com/gws/c...e=true&start=5
Thankfully I'm not going to need to worry about flesh tones with what I plan on painting. Here's an example of one of the Mechs I'll have to try to replicate:
http://www.sharkyforums.com/images/i.../2012/08/1.jpg
I'll check my FLGS for some pre-mixed washes to see what I can find.
Thankfully I'm not going to need to worry about flesh tones with what I plan on painting. Here's an example of one of the Mechs I'll have to try to replicate:
http://www.sharkyforums.com/images/i.../2012/08/1.jpg
I'll check my FLGS for some pre-mixed washes to see what I can find.
I found these videos helpful.
A wash:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OlJVubeExvk
Drybrushing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FggeD...eature=related
I really like the drybushing followed by a wash in the first video. A shame the guy didn't do more paint tutorials.
Kama, a wash would make all those lines on that robot really pop. It is crying for a wash!
I need to get mine to even look like that in the first place! Mine is currently 100% black.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timman_24