Watercooling info

Speedfreak, no problem. I had asked the exact same question at one time.

This is a cut and paste from Cathar's Watercooling FAQ.

"The tubing carries the water from component to component. Tubing can come in a variety of materials and sizes. It is of course best to choose the size of the tubing to match your components fittings.

When considering the size of the tubing and matching it to your components, it's important to understand some of the terminology of fitting and tubing sizes. There are two measurements, being the "Inner Diameter" (or ID) and the "Outer Diameter" (or OD). The ID of a piece of tubing is pretty much all that you should be concerned with. The OD of tubing is near meaningless for our needs since it just defines how thick the walls of the tubing is when you know what the ID is.

For fittings, it's important to not confuse ID and OD. You want the "Outer Diameter" of your fittings/barbs to match the "Inner Diameter" of your tubing. It's usually okay if the tubing's ID is up to 1.5mm (or 1/16") too small for the OD of a fitting, as most tubing can typically be stretched at least that much to fit. If you cannot match up a hose with a fitting size (because you may have fittings of differing OD sizes), then you will need to use a hose sizing adapter."

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Originally posted by Pyro
You want the "Outer Diameter" of your fittings/barbs to match the "Inner Diameter" of your tubing.

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I must be tired, I am sorry, I'll look into this tomorrow, as I am starting to feel like a fool, because I just can't seem to grasp it :( :confused: :( :D

lol, I'll be back later on for a new lesson here, as I can barely type. Thanks all, (well, you two guys :D ) If you want, I am available here at MSN (I just said here at MSN :o ) [email protected] or, well, actually, my AIM, MSN, ICQ, and pretty much everything is in my profile, and my email that I actually check (hehe) is [email protected]

Well, better sign off before I end up leaning on my keyboard thingy (to tired to think of what it's called lmao) and breaking something.

Sorry if I made you read the jibber jabber at the end, honest.

Thanks again, and I'm gone as.................ZZZZZZZZZZZ, oh, where was I, oh yeah, of now ;)

Its not a problem. It is quite simple. After it clicks in your head, you'll want to smack yourself. :p

If only I had photoshop, it would be so much simplier. Anyways, go HERE and scroll down to the "2.5.3 Garden hosing" section. Notice the somewhat clear colored hose with a blue/gold line on it.

The ID is the diameter of the "tunnel", the tunnel being where the water flows through. The OD/outer diameter is the whole diameter of the hose.

Since the ID of the tubing would equals 1/2. The fittings/adaptors OD should equal 1/2. This makes a tight fit when both are connected together.

Inner Diameter - Outer Diameter: Let's try to clear this up some more.

If you take the first finger and thumb of your left hand and wrap them around the thumb of your right hand you get a connection. The left hand fingers make a tube and your thumb makes a fitting. The thickness of your thumb determines how large of an opening you need to make with your fingers. Right?

It doesn't matter how thick your fingers are making the tube, since all that you are concerned about is that they wrap around your thumb.

So, the INNER DIAMETER of the tube made with your fingers measures the hole size. The OUTER DIAMETER of your thumb also measure the hole size. Those two numbers need to match.

However, it really doesn't matter what the outer diameter of your fingers (tube) is. Nothing is going to be wrapped around them.

The pieces that need to match up are the INSIDE of the tube with the OUTSIDE of the fitting. Its like the male and female half of pipe connections. One peice has to be a bit smaller to fit inside the other. You have to match up the INSIDE of one piece with the OUTSIDE of the other piece.

I hope that helps some.

ohhhhh, ok, instead of smacking myself, you get to see a much better treat, me smashing my head against a brick wall :D

https://www.sharkyforums.com/

Thanks ;)

Any other questions? We'll help out as much as we can. :)

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Originally posted by Pyro
Any other questions? We'll help out as much as we can. :)

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Actually, I've got quite a few, but I'll start off by asking you, if you had no limit on the amount you buy, what parts would YOU get?
(just water, no pelts though :( )

More questions to come. ;)

The exact parts I've recommended you.

Also, with your future questions, could you keep them all in this thread as you have done so far. This thread is starting to become a good reference for watercooling beginners. I'd like to refer people to this link. It would be neat having a start to finish watercooling project in one thread. Alot of the answers to beginner's questions would be here. :)

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Originally posted by Pyro
The exact parts I've recommended you.

Also, with your future questions, could you keep them all in this thread as you have done so far. This thread is starting to become a good reference for watercooling beginners. I'd like to refer people to this link. It would be neat having a start to finish watercooling project in one thread. Alot of the answers to beginner's questions would be here. :)

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pyro, you should just make a webpage or something. and build a damn w/c rig why don't you....so we can call you "hydro" instead of pyro. j/k :p

Quote:

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Originally posted by Pyro
The exact parts I've recommended you.

Also, with your future questions, could you keep them all in this thread as you have done so far. This thread is starting to become a good reference for watercooling beginners. I'd like to refer people to this link. It would be neat having a start to finish watercooling project in one thread. Alot of the answers to beginner's questions would be here. :)

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sure, actually, that's what I intended ;)

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Originally posted by kenrippy


pyro, you should just make a webpage or something. and build a damn w/c rig why don't you....so we can call you "hydro" instead of pyro. j/k :p

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Thats the next thing on my list to do. :)

speed freak, here are some answers for your future questions. :D

Water flow: Pump ---> heatercore/radiator ---> CPU waterblock ---> NB waterblock ---> GPU waterblock ---> Reservior/bleed tube ---> back to the pump.

Its exactly like kenrippy's.

Bleeding your watercooling system

Quote:

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Originally posted by Pyro
speed freak, here are some answers for your future questions. :D

Water flow: Pump ---> heatercore/radiator ---> CPU waterblock ---> NB waterblock ---> GPU waterblock ---> Reservior/bleed tube ---> back to the pump.

Its exactly like kenrippy's.

Bleeding your watercooling system

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you read my mind there :eek:

I was just thinking of that last night. Like, what to connect first (I honestly thought that the Rad would be before the pump, but I guess the pump itself creates heat, right?) Also, I have a list of tings to ask :D

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Originally posted by speed freak
Also, I have a list of tings to ask :D

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...and I have a list of things to answer. :)

ok, first off, what case would you recommend to use with a setup like this (I'm assuming a soho server or something.

Secondly, is it possible to store the tank, and all in the case? if so, should I do it that way?

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Originally posted by speed freak
ok, first off, what case would you recommend to use with a setup like this (I'm assuming a soho server or something.

Secondly, is it possible to store the tank, and all in the case? if so, should I do it that way?

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Since I've never actually built a watercooling system this is where my advice becomes somewhat limited.

Pretty much any full tower Antec, Enermax, etc. would be able to fit all of the supplies if you did some hacking, cutting, and drilling. Which you'll have to do anyways. You'll have to remove the lower harddrive rack to fit the dtek heatercore in front under the other harddrive rack. If thats where you want to place it.

Examples:
Chieftec/Chenming Aluminum Dragon Case - Black $79.00 no PSU.

Chieftec Server tower DX-01BLD,SPX-2 $73.00 shipped.

CHIEFTEC Server Chasis (Workstation Tower) Model DX-01BD-420W Comes with a 420 watt PSU, which you probably don't need. $78.00 shipped. Thats a good price with a 420 PSU. :eek:

Find afew cases you like then provide links to them.


Also, kenrippy...does the tank-o-matic support 1/2 fittings? The installation guide states "This includes the installation of any fittings needed to route the water tubing to flow to the new position of the Tank-O-Matic." So I'm assuimg it does. I couldn't really tell by the pics provided and the guide never actually stated fitting sizes.

I'm actually interested in this one because of it's sheer size.

one big arse case ;)

Thats a very good case also. nikhsub1, over at oc-forums.com has that exact case and highly recommends it. Here a link to the THREAD which contains pictures of his WC system.

There would be no remove of a second harddrvie rack, but you would need to remove the metal beam that runs horizontally under the first harddrive rack.

Thanks man, I was looking for a place and price tag for that :D

Also, would cooling be more or less effective if I split the tubes from the pump the the components (that y thing) and then join them after they have gone through the system and when they connect at the tank. or is 300GPH enough to keep the whole system cool with out doing that?

Quote:

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Originally posted by speed freak
Thanks man, I was looking for a place and price tag for that :D

Also, would cooling be more or less effective if I split the tubes from the pump the the components (that y thing) and then join them after they have gone through the system and when they connect at the tank. or is 300GPH enough to keep the whole system cool with out doing that?

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Sorry, but I'm somewhat confused by what you meant. Could you post a waterflow direction like I had earlier or provide a generic looking paint program pic.

Ex. Pump ---> Heatercore ---> CPU waterblock, etc.

Are you talking about a y-splitter? If so, I wouldn't not recommend it and I don't see how it would be possible. I wouldn't split the waterflow. I'm going to email you a pic of the waterflow to your hotmail account.

Yes, a 300GPU pump would keep the system cool without spliting.

EDIT: The file is too big to be sent through hotmail. I'll send it to you when your on AOL.

sorry about not being too clear, but yes, that is what I meant (Y splitters :D ) So, the heat from the CPU, and NB, won't really affect the possibilties of the cooler temps for the GPU?

So, the heat from the CPU, and NB, won't really affect the possibilties of the cooler temps for the GPU? Hardly, performance would probably be worse with a Y splitter(s).

That LiteOn case (the FS020) is huge. I've been keeping my eye on it for just that reason. It isn't all that tall, per se, but it is definately wider than most standard "ATX" cases.

The nice thing is you can mount a very decent sized pump NEXT to the standard harddrive cage. There is that much room on the side of it. There is also a secondary harddrive cage up near the rear exhaust fan, underneath the power supply. That is a great place to put the pump, too, as it can be supported on the side and bottom of the pump, for safer moving (if you move with your w/c setup inside the case).

The case also comes with 3 stock 120mm fan slots. :eek: Yes, 3 120mm fan openings. The front bezel has that great cover over the 120mm that allows air to flow behind and is just BEGGING to be modded (I'm envisioning a mini-cutout with a small cold cathode :p).

There is plenty of room to mount all your w/c gear in there.

The way I'd do it if I had the $$$:
I'd mount a medium-sized resevoir in the rear harddrive cage under the power supply. Behind it, in that 120mm hole, would be a low-speed Panaflo 120mm. In the 120mm below that would be a BIX (Black Ice eXtreme) radiator with a 120mm fan (again, probably a Panaflo low or medium). Mount your waterblocks (I'd want to do at least CPU and GPU, but I'm not terribly concerned about w/c northbridge). The front 120mm would be open for a 3rd Panaflo medium/low speed 120mm fan.

That way you have decent air moving, very minimal noise, and great cooling.

Thanks guys, I'll actually try to draw an image later on and show you my palns (as for Y, I will ditch it then) Also, I want to have a NB because I want HIGH FSB speeds and mem speeds.

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Originally posted by speed freak
Thanks guys, I'll actually try to draw an image later on and show you my palns (as for Y, I will ditch it then) Also, I want to have a NB because I want HIGH FSB speeds and mem speeds.

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sorry, was tied up today, I'll have one by tomorrow ;)