Alpha PAL8942T Heat Sink
120mm to 80mm adapter
120mm adjustable Enermax fan. 63CFM @ 26.4db, 94CFM @ 30.1db
Eric
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Alpha PAL8942T Heat Sink
120mm to 80mm adapter
120mm adjustable Enermax fan. 63CFM @ 26.4db, 94CFM @ 30.1db
Eric
80mm wasn't good enough for ya?;) Should get some good air coolin' with that setup though :)
I've always been interested how those adapters would work...I've heard good things so far though:)
Me too, I've heard bad things though.:( Even if you lose 20cfms, it will still be quieter than a Smart Fan 2, but just as powerful.:)Quote:
I've always been interested how those adapters would work...I've heard good things so far though
It was $3.99 might as well try it :) I'm planning on testing the heat sink with a standard 80mm fan as well. So I will be comparing 34CFM versus 63/94CFM on a adapter. I can not imaging it losing that much because of the adaptor. I'll have those results posted with my OC results. I'm hoping for quieter with at least the same amount of cooling. I live in Houston so my CPU gets hot easily :)Quote:
Originally posted by XP18004life
I've always been interested how those adapters would work...I've heard good things so far though:)
Eric
Sounds good man, post up those results as soon as she comes in:)
You'll lose A LOT of airflow because of the adapter. You see, first the adapter increases resistance by a whole bunch, then the HS adds another huge resistance. Your fan might be rated at 94cfm but it'll be pushing low 30's after the adapter and HS. The biggest problem is that the 120mm fans simply do not provide a lot of air pressure, which is necessary for a CPU cooler. The fan rotates too slow to create this pressure.
Supposedly if it is really tall their is not much resistance. I'll just have to test it. It is Aerodynamic. If it does worse than the 80mm fan what are your thoughts on something like this with the uncoverd part (not the center) dirrectly over the heat sink? Also I thought you were trying to cool the heat sink? If that is the case why would the resistance of the heat sink be any different?Quote:
Originally posted by talldude
You'll lose A LOT of airflow because of the adapter. You see, first the adapter increases resistance by a whole bunch, then the HS adds another huge resistance. Your fan might be rated at 94cfm but it'll be pushing low 30's after the adapter and HS. The biggest problem is that the 120mm fans simply do not provide a lot of air pressure, which is necessary for a CPU cooler. The fan rotates too slow to create this pressure.
Eric
I have one of those Zalman fan thingys. It's a piece of doo-doo. It sits really low over the PCI slots and if you have a decent GFX card it won't be able to get over the top of it and/or make it short. I only payed about 3 bucks for it though, so I'm not too annoyed.
80mm fans provide over 2x the pressure of 120mm fans at the same cfm. When a fan pushes air through a HS, the fins etc. block the flow of air. This creates back pressure. The fan has to overcome this pressure to push the air through the fins. Because 120mm fans produce so much less pressure than 80mm fans, the effective CFM when pushing air through a HS is cut down A LOT more than an 80mm fan. Now, you add an adapter which further cuts the effective CFM...you see where i'm going with this?
The end result of it all is that even if the 120mm fan has over 2x the CFM of the 80mm fan, the effective cfm will not be all that much more, if at all, then the 80mm fan.
Thanks. I'll just live with slightly higher temps if I have too. As long as it is quieter :) Right now the 1.6a is running about 42C/52C with a YStech TMD fan/heatsink. During the winter it is much lower. The Alpha should help out a lot. Even a net of about 30CFM should be better.Quote:
Originally posted by DeadSanta
I have one of those Zalman fan thingys. It's a piece of doo-doo. It sits really low over the PCI slots and if you have a decent GFX card it won't be able to get over the top of it and/or make it short. I only payed about 3 bucks for it though, so I'm not too annoyed.
Eric
ROFL, we're all from Texas. :D
I was thinking more along the lines of the air being funneled to the center... which kills some of the dead area in the center. I guess that would only work with high enough static pressure. How would pulling the air off the heat sink do?Quote:
Originally posted by talldude
80mm fans provide over 2x the pressure of 120mm fans at the same cfm. When a fan pushes air through a HS, the fins etc. block the flow of air. This creates back pressure. The fan has to overcome this pressure to push the air through the fins. Because 120mm fans produce so much less pressure than 80mm fans, the effective CFM when pushing air through a HS is cut down A LOT more than an 80mm fan. Now, you add an adapter which further cuts the effective CFM...you see where i'm going with this?
The end result of it all is that even if the 120mm fan has over 2x the CFM of the 80mm fan, the effective cfm will not be all that much more, if at all, then the 80mm fan.
Eric
Axial fans are much more efficient at pulling air than pushing it. With a properly designed HS, a pulling action would be more efficient because of higher airflow. The SLK series of sinks aren't really designed for air to be pulled through them, so I don't know how the results would turn out. Why don't you try it both ways and see which one is better?
Oh yeah, before you try the pulling thing, make a shroud for the HS out of construction paper such that the air is being pulled through the bottom of the sink and up through the fins. If there is no shroud, the air will simply take the course of least resistance which means it'll be primarily sucked through the top of the HS into the 80-120mm converter which would negate any benefit from the higher CFM you'll be getting. :)
I ordered the Alpha 8942T.Quote:
Originally posted by talldude
Axial fans are much more efficient at pulling air than pushing it. With a properly designed HS, a pulling action would be more efficient because of higher airflow. The SLK series of sinks aren't really designed for air to be pulled through them, so I don't know how the results would turn out. Why don't you try it both ways and see which one is better?
Oh yeah, before you try the pulling thing, make a shroud for the HS out of construction paper such that the air is being pulled through the bottom of the sink and up through the fins. If there is no shroud, the air will simply take the course of least resistance which means it'll be primarily sucked through the top of the HS into the 80-120mm converter which would negate any benefit from the higher CFM you'll be getting. :)
Eric
Oohh...that's a nice sink. I got its athlon brother, the 8045. Still, with my delta 80cfm I get better results with the fan blowing at the HS. Might be because of the focused flow fins. Whatever...I'm sure with a 120mm fan you'll get very nice cooling with little noise. :)
Overclocking will have to wait for the heat sink. This crappy one I have on it now is at 50C idle. Although I did do a terrible job installing the AS because I knew it was only for a few days.Quote:
Originally posted by talldude
Oohh...that's a nice sink. I got its athlon brother, the 8045. Still, with my delta 80cfm I get better results with the fan blowing at the HS. Might be because of the focused flow fins. Whatever...I'm sure with a 120mm fan you'll get very nice cooling with little noise. :)
Eric
Lol. I just redid my AS3. This time I went with as little as possible. The layer was so thin I could see the core, i mean there was hardly any on there. Temps didn't budge either way really. I think I need a better HS to get better temps at this point.
Wouldn't a transparent layer of as3 inhibit good cooling, like minimize contact? Don't you need like "just the right amount" to get effective transfer?
Well...when you have a HS that has been lapped as flat as is humanly possible with 1500 grit paper, and then buffed to a nice finish, there is hardly any need for thermal paste. The thing is, thermal paste inhibits the transfer of heat if at that point there could be direct die - HS contact. The job of the paste is to fill the little gaps and make sure that there aren't any air bubbles. If you got a perfectly flat die and a perfectly flat HS, there wouldn't be any need for the paste because it would simply block the transfer of heat. That's pretty much impossible to have though...so I went with the as little as possible paste approach. :)
Ya, I know the ins and outs of thermal grease, I just didn't know you had lapped your hs, but now it's comin back to me (several threads about this a while back)...:)Quote:
Originally posted by talldude
Well...when you have a HS that has been lapped as flat as is humanly possible with 1500 grit paper, and then buffed to a nice finish, there is hardly any need for thermal paste. The thing is, thermal paste inhibits the transfer of heat if at that point there could be direct die - HS contact. The job of the paste is to fill the little gaps and make sure that there aren't any air bubbles. If you got a perfectly flat die and a perfectly flat HS, there wouldn't be any need for the paste because it would simply block the transfer of heat. That's pretty much impossible to have though...so I went with the as little as possible paste approach. :)
The AC kicks in during the night. It was running cool enough I did a quick OC. I pushed it up to 2.91Ghz and maxed out at 55C during the seti benchmark. I'm running 356DDR at the moment at 2.6v. The CPU is still at stock voltage. I'm not taking it over 1.6v. It did do close to 3.2 at stock but I was pushing the memory too much and windows would not load. Since I have the Mushkin coming in I did not play with it.Quote:
Originally posted by talldude
Lol. I just redid my AS3. This time I went with as little as possible. The layer was so thin I could see the core, i mean there was hardly any on there. Temps didn't budge either way really. I think I need a better HS to get better temps at this point.
Eric